Every pueblo has intrepid potato vendors who heed the call for something different from the usual run of street food. For each order, the vendor cracks open a hot, foil-wrapped potato that has been baked in the coals of a wood fire. He mixes the steaming, fluffy insides with diced carne asada, pieces of butter, a good pinch of onions, and cubes of cheese—usually Jack, but queso fresco or cotixa are other choices. The potato, now almost completely loca, is rewrapped and popped back into the embers for several minutes, until it is piping hot. The diner finishes the papa loca with pico de gallo, pickled jalapeños, and whatever else the stand might offer for garnishes—tasty bits like tart Mexican sour cream (crema), ground chiles, chicharrón (crispy pork rinds), cilantro, green onions, chipotle salsa . . . the list goes on and on.
Sliced pickled jalapeños, pico de gallo, assorted salsas and garnishes as desired
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