Papas Locas

Every pueblo has intrepid potato vendors who heed the call for something different from the usual run of street food. For each order, the vendor cracks open a hot, foil-wrapped potato that has been baked in the coals of a wood fire. He mixes the steaming, fluffy insides with diced carne asada, pieces of butter, a good pinch of onions, and cubes of cheese—usually Jack, but queso fresco or cotixa are other choices. The potato, now almost completely loca, is rewrapped and popped back in