Fresh chiles are so basic to Mexican cooking that it’s easy to overlook them as a treat in their own right. All chiles do not taste alike; pale yellow güero chiles (the name means “blond” and is often applied to Americans or light-haired Mexicans) have a pleasantly assertive flavor. The simple technique of pan-roasting them brings out their fruitiness and makes for a delicious nibble or side dish. A squeeze of lemon juice adds sweetness, while soy sauce subtly adds color and saltiness (soy is a frequent, if underplayed, ingredient in many modern Mexican recipes). The recipe may also be prepared with spicier jalapeños, though güeros, too, can be spicy without warning. Small pointed sweet peppers or Japanese shishito peppers are reliably milder substitutes.