The infamous perro caliente has a devoted, even fanatical, following. It is a product of that uneasy netherworld between processed foods and ancient traditions that now exists in every culinary culture and has spawned such aberrations as spushi—sushi made with Spam—and hot dog ceviche. But this truly noble concoction will lift you to heights that sauerkraut and onions can only dream of attaining. Imagine a dog wrapped in bacon, then fried; enfolded in a warm, squishy garlic-toasted roll; topped with lime mayonnaise, spicy pico de gallo, and chipotle-spiked ketchup; and mounded with pickled jalapeños, cilantro sprigs, and white onions. I would walk over hot coals, any day, for one of these.
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