Ceviche originated in Peru, where it is still very simple—raw seafood with a few chiles and other vegetables, tossed with fresh-squeezed citrus juice just before serving. (Ceviche is not cooked with heat, so using fresh, top-quality fish is essential.) In theory, any raw fish can be cured in citrus, combined with almost anything, and still be called “ceviche.” Chefs can, and do, go wild elaborating on this basic idea, using all types of seafood, and adding everything from caviar to coconut to potatoes. (Some even add a dash of tequila or other liquor, such as gin or vodka.) I love this simple preparation. While it doesn’t stray too far from the classic recipe, the balance of ginger and chile is an exciting change, especially with a hint of sweetness from the apple. Wild salmon is an excellent choice for ceviche, especially colorful, fatty sockeye, which turns an even brighter coral color in the citrus bath. Don’t leave the fish in too long, though, or it will lose its delicacy.