Borracho means “drunk” and there is an entire family of borracho foods. Very little alcohol is used in any of them, with the possible exception of refried beans with beer, which uses a whole bottle. Borracha (tipsy) salsas are spiked with a light touch of beer, tequila, or pulque (another fermented agave product), but they are never strong or overwhelming. This recipe is made of two kinds of dried chiles, which must be cooked to bring out their bright berry and tobacco flavors. The salsa is brilliant with lamb and beef, very good with eggs, and terrific as an enchilada sauce.