Black Sea Cornbread with Leeks and Whitebait

When I led my first gourmet tour of Turkey in 2013, we visited the tranquil Istanbul suburb of Anadolu Kavaği—the last stop for the Bosphorus ferries—lined with casual seaside restaurants looking out to the Black Sea and up to Yoros Castle. We sat down to a fish feast.

Walking back to the ferry, we passed an unassuming bakery, and one of my guests noted a snack I’d never seen before—cornbread that seemed to be stuffed with sardines and leeks. He bought some for everyone an