This complex combination of large and small dumplings in a lamb and chickpea stew comes from Malatya in eastern Anatolia, an area best known for apricots. The mothers are a mixture of beef and bulgur stuffed with minced lamb. The daughters are not big enough to have stuffing. You won’t find this dish in many restaurants—only home cooks (and my friend Musa) have the time to do it properly.
For the mums’ outer coating it’s important to choose beef with a low fat content and