This is my attempt to recreate a memory. When I was a teenager, I used to buy sandwiches from fishermen who would moor their boats next to one of the pillars of the Galata Bridge, just across the road from Istanbul’s spice market. They would fillet their catch and cook fish pieces over a little charcoal grill, then shove them inside pide. Nowadays, this has turned into a tourist experience, where colourful boats, permanently moored, sell frozen fish cooked on flat griddles.

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