Kavala is a town in Greece, not far from the border of Turkey. I wanted to include what Turks call Kavala cookies in honour of one of my food idols—the Sydney chef Janni Kyritsis, whose grandparents were expelled from Turkey in the 1920s as part of a government policy of monoculturalism. They ended up living in Kavala (just as my grandparents were expelled from Greece and ended up living in the Turkish town of Mürefte, where Janni’s parents had started). But when I asked Janni if he was familiar with Kavala cookies, he looked blank. The people of Kavala, it seems, just call them almond cookies, and are unaware of their city’s fame throughout my country.