A meal in a meyhane usually starts with an assortment of cold plates, designed to sit on the table for hours. Most customers are there primarily to drink alcohol, and they may just pick at their food, expecting it to taste as good at midnight as it did when they sat down at 7 pm. Borani is a model of this kind of meze. The centrepiece is braised carrot, which lines the stomach nicely. I’ve called this a dip, but it’s denser than the usual dips made with yoğurt and coloured with beetroot, chillies or parsley. This one is coloured with turmeric—known in Turkey as the poor man’s saffron because it provides visual impact without the exotic fragrance.