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4
Easy
By David Dale and Somer Sivrioglu
Published 2015
This is a dish to help you sober up at 4 am and in Istanbul is likely to be found in an offal specialist that is closed during daylight hours. These places, in the more colourful suburbs, catch the customers who stagger out of a meyhane in a confused condition after midnight and look after them until the breakfast cafés start opening around 6 am.
I first encountered kelle paça when I was seventeen at an eatery called Apik in the abattoir district Dolapdere. I