The traditional recipe involves stuffing and wrapping hamsi (similar to a European anchovy), the most prized fish of the Black Sea region, but they are impossible to find outside of the Black Sea. You could make this dish with sardines, or small red mullet, but I prefer garfish because it’s milder in taste and can absorb some of the saltiness of the vine leaves. Because they’re cooked on the barbecue or grill, the vine leaves will char a little. That just adds flavour.