This Gluten-free summer favourite is one of the oldest Ottoman recipes, derived from a dish called Keşkül-ü Fukara (‘begging bowl’), which was generously served to the populace by the sultans to celebrate war victories, religious holidays and other significant occasions.

The word keşkül means a bowl made out of a coconut half shell, which the dervish monks would wear around their necks in the hope people might throw in donations (which would have been difficult if they were whirling dervishes). Nowadays, the poor don’t need to go to the palace—they can find versions of keşkül in pudding shops across Istanbul.

There are several traditional variations—some using only almonds, some using coconut flakes. I like crushed pistachios to give a bright green colour and a crunchy texture.