Tapioca pudding with lemon and bitter orange

This is El Faro’s version of Spain’s ubiquitous arroz con leche, or rice pudding, in this case using tapioca, a jelly-like substance full of glistening pearls that’s made from the cassava root. Welcome back—I haven’t eaten this since my school days, and it is an epiphany. The El Faro version is dreamily gelatinous and not too sweet, with hits of citrus—absolutely delicious. You’ll need to start a night in advance, but you can keep it in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, then briefly