Bigoli in salsa

Bigoli, from Veneto, are the only pasta traditionally made with wholewheat flour, a little butter and duck eggs. They are like thick spaghetti and are dressed with a sardine or anchovy sauce, a chicken liver sauce (bigoli coi rovinazzi) or a sauce of duck giblets and onion (bigoli all’anara). For this recipe, buy a good (expensive) brand of sardines. You can substitute anchovies for the sardines, in which case 70g/2½ oz of an