I love this sauce with the sweet and savoury flavour of the past. It is a recipe by Christoforo di Messisbugo, steward to the Duke d’Este of Ferrara in the sixteenth century. The Estes were great patrons of the arts and lovers of good living. As recorded in Messisbugo’s book, their lavish banquets were unrivalled in the whole of Europe for their sumptuousness. This pasta sauce is, however, very simple to make and it has an unusual and subtle taste. I add some almo