Fogg may have been fastidious about his daily serving of boiled fish with sauce, but the very idea brings to mind a fair few school dinners my tastebuds would rather forget. Pallid plaice begone — catch of the day is Sybil Kapoor’s recipe for succulent mackerel served with sweet, oozy gooseberry relish (which can be cooked well ahead and, if stored correctly, keeps for a good long time).