Dolly Varden Cake

If you want to start a debate among older show cooks and judges, ask them what constitutes a Dolly Varden cake. This old-fashioned treat once featured on many show schedules, especially in Victoria, but it is gradually disappearing, and part of the reason may be that there seems to be no general agreement on what the cake should look like.

At Goroke in the western Wimmera region of Victoria, the class remains but the society often struggles to attract entries. Among