Zuppa di Cozze

I love this soup, and it is substantial enough for a main course. Mussels are sometimes overlooked, and perhaps that is a question of freshness. Locally, we get mussels from Puget Sound, Maine; for years Prince Edward Island mussels were the go-to source.

I like tiny, briny mussels, like the ones from Normandy in France. The bigger mussels are flabby and are not a good choice for this recipe. The mussels you buy should smell like the sea. They should be shiny black, and, more import