Porcini and Garlic

Cepes or porcini, the name is different the world over. They have a meaty, umami flavor that is scrumptious. Every once in a while, I receive gifts from foragers. These can come from as far as Poland or as close as New York State. The flavors can truly vary, as do their size, freshness, and variety (mycologists list more than fifty types that are edible).

On one occasion, my buddy Ruth Reichl was dining