Swordfish with Tomato-Cucumber Salsa

Swordfish is a magnificent game fish that cooks perfectly. It can be grilled or sautéed, but grilling is truly the best method. It seals in the juices, adds some spectacular umami flavor, and is fun to do as well. There are no real tricks to swordfish—it cooks quickly and is hard to cook badly. I like to season it, add some olive oil, and simply grill it like a steak, over some good heat.

The tomato salsa needs some bright, ripe heirlooms to work well. I like the round yellow lemon