Beets have become the catchword for healthy veg. And indeed, they truly are. What is more interesting is the discovery of heirloom varieties. These ancient cultivars are so essential to my cooking that I sometimes take them for granted. Yellow beets, Chioggia beets, black sand beets—they all have their different qualities. Some are better small, others need to reach a good size before the sugars are set and the starchiness has dissipated.
Over the years I’ve tried various cooking me