Ligurian Chickpea Pancake

Farinata, which is nearly identical to the socca of Provence, is a cross between firm polenta and a primitive pizza. To me it’s the perfect no-work Mediterranean appetizer, a great thing to have in your repertoire if you want to make sure there’s something warm for guests to eat when they arrive—or if you just want to round out a pasta dinner for the family on a weeknight.

Keep the pepper mill nearby when you serve the farinata; it’s best with an almost perverse amount of freshly gr