Pizzocheri with Savoy Cabbage, Potatoes, and Cheese

If you can’t find pizzocheri, a buckwheat pasta cut like fettuccine, you have two choices: make it yourself or substitute any fettuccinelike pasta. If you can’t find Taleggio (already a compromise, because when I had this dish it was made with a local Alpine cheese whose name exists only in dialect), use fontina (real fontina, if you can find it, from the Valle d’Aosta), or another fairly strong but not too hard or harsh cheese.