I was given this recipe by Franco Taruschio, who used to own the Walnut Tree in Abergavenny, and my version of it was in fact published 10 years ago. The problem is that the recipe printed didn’t work. Someone at the publishers had read that saltpetre was banned as an ingredient. This turned out to be only true when it was ground into sausage meat to improve its colour. Saltpetre’s use in brines was perfect
