Garlic and lemon courgettes with girolle mushrooms and crème fraîche

Courgettes are available year-round, but they aren’t good year-round. If recently harvested, they are delicately-flavoured and crunchy. If chilled and stored for air-freighting, they turn dry and coarse. During the summer, when courgettes should be cheap and plentiful, they are worthy of extra effort and make an interesting starter. Their usual accompaniment is tomato, as in ratatouille, but later in the season, when the first wild mushrooms appear, they can be given this treatment. My intr