Zwieback

Crunchy, toasty, gently nutmeg-scented, and very lightly sweetened, zwieback (the name means “twice-baked”) is typical of the cookie-toasts of the rusk family. It is first baked in a loaf, then sliced and dried out in a warm oven.

Some of us have such a deep and abiding affection for these old-fashioned “baby biscuits” that we can’t be objective about this recipe. Do remind yourself that zwieback is not just a wholesome biscuit to be gnawed by teething infants. These crisp toasts ar