John Carruthers is many things: my former writing partner (we’ve written two cookbooks together), one of my best friends, and a brilliant food mind. John’s obsession is Chicago tavern–style pizza, which he has absolutely perfected and it’s been such a marvel to watch. We’re now a few states away from each other, but when we get together in the kitchen, it’s muscle memory—we flow and create like we’re still in our tiny test kitchen in Chicago.