Also known as St Peter’s fish because of the two black thumbprints on its sides – think feeding the five thousand, bread and fish, and St Peter doing his stuff. The fillets of this highly regarded and much sought after fish are capable of taking big, strong flavours, such as the lovage and the garlic roast snails. The ideal time, if you can get the timing right, would be to use the last of the wild garlic leaves, when the fist of the broad beans are coming