Poacher, a cheddar-style hard, cows’ cheese made with raw milk, has a smooth-textured, fruity, nutty flavour, and is made by Simon Jones at Ulceby Grange, near Alford, on the edge of the Lincolnshire Wolds. A wedge of this with a dollop of fennel and apple remoulade has a lovely, light flavour, as a dish in itself. It has been known to be served with some dill grissini as these aniseed-flavoured breadsticks add a bit of texture. It also makes a great sandwich with seeded wholemeal bread. The name is taken from a folk song ‘The Lincolnshire Poacher’s Song’.