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By Jeffrey Hamelman

Published 2004

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Brioche Seems to Defy Reality. With all that butter—50 percent of the flour weight is butter in this formula—it should be earthbound and heavy; yet when properly made, it is ethereal and light, feathery, delicate, subtle, and delectable. It seems, too, to somehow defy classification. Is it bread? Not really. Pastry? Not quite that either. It must be some other thing all of its own. To just file it under viennoiserie—lightly sweetened yeast goods—seems to dishonor its uniquenes