I haven’t cooked this dish since my college days, when it was part of the City and Guilds curriculum, and you rarely see it in cookbooks any more. Alexis Soyer invented this dish at the Reform Club in the 1830s. Like many of the old classics, this dish was from a range of ingredients at hand at the time. My theory is that, rather like the Caesar salad, those were the ingredients left in the cold room, and the d