Crayfish Cooked in Beer with Wild Fennel

When I was in Finland a couple of years ago, I was lucky enough to arrive in prime crayfish season. At this time of year, the Finns pay crazy money for crayfish, washed down with strong shots of aquavit. In New Orleans, I also witnessed a crayfish ‘broil’ up a remote part of the Mississippi, with jazz band and all.

So why shouldn’t we celebrate the culling of these tiny delicacies that are overrunning our British waters? Can we convince ourselves that crayfish feasts are the way for