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By Gary Rhodes
Published 1999
Devilled or spiced dishes became extremely popular throughout the nineteenth century, both for breakfast and for dinner savouries. Herring roes, kidneys, chicken livers, pieces of meat and poultry were all devilled; the devil sauces were also used to add flavour to leftovers.
Devilled kidneys is one of the best-known Victorian and Edwardian breakfast dishes, often to be found sizzling gently in a silver chafing dish on a country-house breakfast sideboard.
The kidneys can be
