Escargots au Beurre d’Anchois

A book on the cooking of Burgundy must surely have a recipe for snails! Prized by the Romans, the big white ‘escargot de Bourgogne’ still exists in profusion, ready for gathering after any shower of rain. Preparing them, however, is a week-long operation of purging, cleaning, simmering and shelling before cooking even begins. Much more practical is to buy prepared snails which come from specialised French farms where literally millions are canned or frozen every week.