When he makes a ‘bourguignon’, Chef Chambrette roams the market like a hunter, seeking out just the right pieces of lean, dark meat with plenty of connective tissue to dissolve during cooking and enrich the sauce. In Britain a good cut to choose would be chuck steak. I’ve also cooked oxtail ‘à la bourguignonne’: it takes about five hours and a wonderfully rich sauce results. Whichever meat you use, the secret of a really good flavour is to take the time to brown the ingredi