This rich meal-in-a-bowl is the one many foreigners say is their favorite dish from Burma. The Burmese name, pronounced “oh-no kao sway,” is a simple compound of the terms for coconut (ohn-no) and noodles (khaut swe).
Ohn-no khaut swe in its most elaborate form also includes fish balls, given as optional in the recipe. I love the chicken sauce-broth so much that I often serve it on its own over rice or pasta, with simple cooked greens or a green salad on the side. Lime wedges and a chile sauce such as Tart-Sweet Chile-Garlic Sauce or Sour-Plum Chutney with Chile Oil are good condiments for the table.
I prefer dark meat, so I begin with about 2 pounds chicken legs (two whole legs), but you can use breasts if you prefer. I cut most of the meat off the bones, and use them to make the stock, but you can use boneless chicken and already-made broth (both options are set out below).
If you are using bone-in chicken, cut the chicken off the bones. Set the meat aside.
Place the bones in a medium pot and add the water, ginger, and shallots. Bring to a boil, half-cover, lower the heat, and simmer for an hour. Remove the bones, ginger, and shallots, or strain the broth into a large saucepan. You should have about
Meanwhile, about 30 minutes before the broth is ready, chop the reserved chicken meat or the boneless chicken into 1-inch pieces. Place in a bowl, add the fish sauce and
Bring the chicken broth to a simmer.
Put the chickpea flour in a small bowl, add ½ cup of the water, and whisk to blend it into a paste, then stir in the remaining ¼ cup water. Scoop out some warm broth and whisk or stir it briskly into the chickpea mixture so there are no lumps. Add it all back into the broth and whisk to incorporate it smoothly. Set aside.
Place a large wok or wide heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add the oil and then the turmeric. Stir, then add the minced shallots and cook, stirring frequently, for 4 minutes or until translucent. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds, then add the chicken and stir-fry until all the meat has changed color. Add the chicken broth and the remaining
Meanwhile, put on a large pot of water to boil. Put out six large soup bowls.
Drop the egg noodles and fish balls, if using, into the boiling water. Lift out or drain when the noodles are cooked through, about 4 minutes for fresh noodles, 7 for dried. Place about
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