Seafood Noodle Stir-Fry

Every little roadside eatery in the southern coastal town of Dawei serves a version of this dish (pronounced “ka-gee kai”). The usual combination is squid, shrimp, and mussels or oysters. If you can find only two of the three kinds of seafood called for, increase the quantity of each, or add another that you like. In Burma the shrimp are cooked head-on and in the shell. Guests then suck all the flavor possible from them as they eat. If you prefer, you can remove the heads, or the heads and