This dish is almost all John Healy’s, a Café Paradiso cook, and a man who likes his food delicately flavoured and calmly composed to look at. We serve three tiny wontons in a shallow bowl of broth with a few carefully cut and placed garnishes. It would seem a much more straightforward dish if it was simply one type of wonton and the broth, and that might be the best way to do it the first time. But the beauty of it is in the three different shapes and flavours and how they
