Sweet-and-Spicy Pickled Ramps

There’s no escaping the king of stink in West Virginia. These wild-foraged leeks, garlicky and pungent, are only found for a couple weeks in early spring, so get to the first farmers’ market of the season or befriend someone who knows where ramps grow and how to gather them sustainably (leaving the roots in the ground).

This makes a small batch (ramps can be pricey, and a little goes a long way anyway). The greens won’t look all that attractive on the shelf, as they wilt and collaps