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In the chilly northern provinces cold vegetable dishes or salads are not overly popular, but when summer arrives, such dishes do appear on menus. Even if a vegetable dish is served cold, though, it is very rarely raw; there is always at least some gentle cooking before assembly. Aubergine is a good choice for this process, as it has a texture and taste that are not diminished when served chilled. This recipe comes from Tianjin.
