Pork with Chinese Chives

Chives are found in three forms throughout China: flat, slim-bladed green chives, which are usually stir-fried or chopped to enliven fillings for dumplings and spring rolls; yellow chives, grown under cloches to keep them pale and silky; and a different vegetable altogether, the thick-stemmed flowering garlic chives, which are tipped with pointed green buds. Green or yellow chives are used here.