A Hangzhou dish, this has a genuine pedigree, because Su Tung-Po, a famous poet and gourmet of the Song Dynasty (960—1279), actually lived in this city and was its governor for a few years. The recipe has become popular all over the world, and is now a featured dish in many restaurants both in China and elsewhere. Traditionally, belly pork is used, but if you deem this too fatty, use a leaner cut streaked with some fat instead. True Tung-Po pork always has the skin on. Trad