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Rites of passage and birthdays are invariably celebrated with the serving of noodles (mien) to symbolize longevity. This quintessential Shanghai dish is a favourite for such celebrations. The noodles used are always a special variety: fine, almost bone-white, and extremely delicate. These are normally sold in boxes containing skeins of the noodles, each wrapped with a red string and intended for special occasions. They are believed to have originated in Fujian and are called mee sua in the
