Braised Fish with Garlic

Being closely affiliated with Sichuan, Hunan cooking has much in common with her sister province and is often even more fiery. The spiciest variety of chilli that grows here is a fingertip-sized pod called ‘to the sky’, as it grows facing upward. Shaoxing wine, Sichuan pepper, ginger and spring onions make up the classic marinade described as xian, which defies translation – it is indefinable and utterly intoxicating.