Mrs Schwarz left Vienna for England in 1937 with her husband, young children and cook. When the cook returned home at the outbreak of war, Mrs Schwarz took over the kitchen. Although she had no practical experience at that point, she did have her Austrian cookbooks and a beautiful collection of cake moulds that had been part of her trousseau. Using them ever since, she has become an inspired baker whose cakes are among the best I have ever tasted.