Fromage de tête, céleri rémoulade

Like boudin, the origins of this dish are very rustic; it was created by farmers to ensure that no part of the animal was wasted. They would brine then boil a whole pig’s or calf’s head, including the bones and skin, to remove all the meat, and would then use the collagen in the bones, that had leached into the cooking liquid, to set the meat in a mould. More refined versions now discard the most gelatinous and chewy parts of the head, including the eyes and brain, and add the tongue, but t