Brandade de morue, rösti, jaune d’oeuf

This is a variation on a very long-established local dish from the Languedoc region, traditionally made by beating olive oil and the poaching milk from cooking the cod into the fish to make a thick, creamy purée. Some recipes now include potato and while that has come to be considered traditional, in fact it’s believed that the original recipes from the south didn’t include it.

We weren’t really a religious family but while I was growing up, my grandparents did observe the Catholic