Joues de boeuf en daube, grand-mère

Another poor man’s cut of meat, but when cooked slowly and gently, beef cheeks are transformed. The gelatinous, chewy cheek muscles break down and become so soft the meat melts in your mouth.

In the 1970s, when I first put this on a menu in England, nobody was eating joues de boeuf; they were used for dog food! And when I asked the butcher to source them for me, he found it hard. Fast forward 40 years and cheeks – pig, calf and ox – have become so popular, they’re now really fashion