Ris de veau poêlé, girolles, céleri-rave

Some people will tell you to soak sweetbreads but I never soak mine. If you buy good-enough quality, you shouldn’t need to. However, you do need to treat and cook them as you would a steak – by sealing them very quickly in a very hot pan, then finishing them in the oven.

There are two types of sweetbread: heart and throat. Make sure you ask your butcher for ‘heart’ sweetbreads. The heart sweetbreads are spherical in shape and plumper than the long, thin throat sweetbreads. These are